Peru - 22nd. October - 5th November 2008



To see a list of birds seen click here


To see a list of mammals seen click here


Wednesday 22nd October 2008.


Depart Norwich Airport 06:30, KLM flight to Amsterdam, arrive 08:00 local time. Depart Amsterdam 10:20 local time on direct KLM flight to Lima, arriving 16:20 local time. Met at airport by Paula and her colleagues and transfer to minibus. Driven to Ica, arriving at Dunas hotel at 21:45 local time. We met our guide for the trip, Pepe, and had a very brief meal and straight to bed for much needed rest.

Dry, mild.

Kelp Gull (2), Black Vulture (1), Pacific Dove (3-4) - all seen at Lima.


Thursday 23rd October 2008


Dry, mild, sunny on the pelagic.

Woke at 05:30. Walk around grounds of hotel before breakfast (06:00), met other Naturetrekkers.

Depart Dunas hotel at 06:30 for Paracas. Embarked on pelagic to Islas Ballestas, by speedboat - approximately 20 people on board. Pelagic lasted from 08:00 to 10:30. Then by minibus to the 'cathedral' - a geological formation on the clifftop at Paracas. The arch which was previously present had been destroyed by the earthquake last year. Then a brief call at the Paracas National Park museum.

Lunch was taken on the promenade at Paracas, after which we headed north to our overnight stay at the Casino hotel in Miraflores, just south of Lima. We stopped at a couple of places on the long journey north to birdwatch. We arrived at the hotel at 18:00.


Birds:-

Humboldt Penguin (20), Peruvian Pelican (300), Peruvian Booby (1,000), Neotropic Cormorant (300+), Guanay Cormorant (20+), Red-legged Cormorant (6; 2 on the pelagic, 4 from the 'cathedral' rock), Great Egret (2), Snowy Egret (100 Paracas), Cattle Egret (100 along the road), Black Vulture (20+), Turkey Vulture (10 Paracas), Chilean Flamingo (6 distantly from the museum), American Kestrel (2 on the way to Miraflores), Blackish Oystercatcher (heard at Paracas), Black-necked Stilt (2 Pantanos de Villa, from the road), Peruvian Thick-knee (30+ on way to Miraflores), Grey Plover (2 Paracas), Whimbrel (2 Paracas), Turnstone (10 Paracas), Spotted Sandpiper (1), Sanderling (200 Paracas), Grey Gull (30 Paracas), Band-tailed Gull (50 Paracas), Kelp Gull (20 Paracas), Grey-hooded Gull (10 Paracas), Royal Tern (2 Paracas), Inca Tern (200 Paracas), Black Skimmer (1 Paracas), Feral Pigeon (10 +), Eared Dove (3), Pacific Dove (6 hotel grounds Ica), Croaking Ground Dove (1 heard, hotel grounds Ica), Burrowing Owl (1 seen distantly on way to Miraflores), Amazilia Hummingbird (brief views of 1 in hotel grounds, Ica), Black-necked Woodpecker (pair at nest, in hotel grounds Ica), Coastal Miner (good views of 2 pale birds near Paracas museum), Surf Cinclodes (1 on Islas Ballestas, right on the surf line), Pied Crested Tit-tyrant (1 hotel grounds Ica), Vermillion Flycatcher (1 male, 1 female, hotel grounds Ica), Blue and White Swallow (20 along the coast), Long-tailed Mockingbird (15 during the day), Rufous-collared Sparrow (2 Ica), Blue-backed Grassquit (2 hotel grounds, Ica), Cinereous Conebill (1 hotel grounds Ica), Scrub Blackbird (1 on way to Miraflores), House Sparrow (15).


Mammals:-

South American Fur Seal (300+ Islas Ballestas), Bottle-nose Dolphin (6 Paracas)


Friday 24th October, 2008


Depart hotel in Miraflores at 06:15. Drive to Lima airport where we caught a LAN flight to Puerto Maldonado, via Cusco. Arrive Cusco 09:45, then Puerto Maldonado arriving 11:05. The heat and humidity as we got off the plane was very apparent and much different to the dry conditions of Lima a couple of hours earlier.

We were then driven to the place where we embarked our motorised covered canoe for the journey upriver to the Refugio Amazonas, where we arrived in late afternoon. Overnight Refugio Amazonas.


Birds:-

Bananaquit (1 Miraflores) Pacific Dove (10+), American Kestrel (1 Miraflores), Peregrine (1 Lima), Black Vulture (16), Croaking Ground Dove (1), Palm Tanager (2 Puerto Maldonado airport), Eared Dove (1), White-throated Tinamou (1 heard, RA), Little Tinamou (1 heard RA), Undulated Tinamou (1 heard at checkpoint before RA), Speckled Chachalaca (1 heard RA), Spix's Guan (2 RA), Snowy Egret (1), Black Vulture (3), Turkey Vulture (2), Greater Yellow-headed Vulture (6), Plumbeous Kite (2), Roadside Hawk (1), Black Caracara (4), Red-throated Caracara (4), Sunbittern (2 on river journey to RA), Pied Lapwing (3 on river journey to RA), Scarlet Macaw (1 heard near RA), Chestnut-fronted Macaw (25), Smooth-billed Ani (1), Common Potoo (1 heard RA), Sand-coloured Nighthawk (10 on river near RA), Ladder-tailed Nightjar (3), White-chinned Sapphire (1 female), Green Kingfisher (1), Rufous Motmot (1), Swallow-wing (1), Ivory-billed Aracari (10), White-throated Toucan (1 heard RA), Crimson-crested Woodpecker (1), Barred Woodcreeper (1), Drab Water-tyrant (1), Tropical Kingbird (1), Boat-billed Flycatcher (1), Social Flycatcher (1), Gray-capped Flycatcher (2), Screaming Piha (1 heard RA), Violaceous Jay (5 - a stunningly beautiful species), White-winged Swallow (6), Brown0chested Martin (3), Moustached Wren (1 heard RA), House Wren (1 heard RA), Silver-beaked Tanager (1 male), Blue-gray Tanager (1), Palm Tanager (2), Swallow Tanager (1 male, 1 female, RA), Double-collared Seedeater (6), Greyish Saltator (1), Russet-backed Oropendola (6), Shining Cowbird (10), Plain Tyrannulet (1), Giant Cowbird (1)


Mammals:-

Capybara (13 seen along the river journey)


Saturday 25th October 2008


Morning shower before leaving Refugio Amazonas then clear sunny and hot.

Pre breakfast walk to the canopy tower, Refugio Amazonas. After breakfast depart Refugio Amazonas at 11:30. Motorised covered canoe upstream to Tambopata Research Centre, arriving 17:00. An idyllic setting, a short walk from the river, an open lodge style.


Birds:-

Great Tinamou (1 heard TRC), Blue-throated Piping Guan (2), Orinoco Goose (3 from the canoe), Spix's Guan (2 TRC), Razor-billed Curassow (1 on the riverbank from the canoe), Neotropical Cormorant (2), Anhinga (1), Capped Heron (1 from the canoe), Cocoi Heron (3), Great Egret (1), Little Blue Heron (1), Snowy Egret (2), Cattle Egret (1), Striated Heron (1), Black Vulture (10 including 2 birds with pink head and paler back), Turkey Vulture (10), Greater Yellow-headed Vulture (6), King Vulture (1), Osprey (2), Plumbeous Kite (4), Roadside Hawk (2), Swallow0tailed Kite (2), Black Caracara (1), Laughing Falcon (1 from the canoe), Gray-necked Wood-rail (1), Yellow-billed Tern (2), Large-billed Tern (2), Blue-and-yellow Macaw (2), Scarlet Macaw (10), Red-and-green Macaw (6), Chestnut-fronted Macaw (4), Squirrel Cuckoo (1), Great Potoo (2), Ocellated Poorwill (1 came to tape, TCR), Pale-rumped Swift (6 near canopy tower, RA), Fork-tailed Palm Swift (1), Amazon Kingfisher (1), Great Jacamar (1 near canopy tower, RA), Black-fronted Nunbird (2-3 TRC), Swallow-wing (6), Lettered Aracari (6), Chestnut-eared Aracari (1 from canoe), Yellow-tufted Woodpecker (2), Lineated Woodpecker (1), Buff-throated Woodcreeper (1), Plain-winged Antshrike (1 male RA), Chestnut-tailed Antbird (1 male, 1 female), Gray Antbird (1 heard), White-billed Tody-tyrant (1), Tropical Pewee (1TCR), Drab Water Tyrant (2), Tropical Kingbird (2), Eastern Kingbird (2), Boat-billed Flycatcher (1), Grey-capped Flycatcher (1), Round-tailed Manakin (1 female), Purplish Jay (3), White-winged Swallow (20), Brown-chested Martin (1), White-winged Swallow (6), Purple-throated Fruit-crow (2), Giant Cowbird (20), Russet-backed Oropendola (10), Crested Oropendola (2), Screaming Piha (2)


Mammals:-

Saddle-backed Tamarin (6), Dusky Titi (2), Capybara 6)


Sunday 26th October 2008


Dry, sunny, hot and humid with brief shower over lunch.

Depart 04:30 for short boat trip to be ready at macaw clay click for dawn arrival of the birds. Back for breakfast at 08:00. Then a walk through the forest from 09:00 to midday. Then afternoon walk in the forest from 15:00 - 18:00.


Birds:-

Speckled Chachalaca (3), Spix's Guan (3), Blue-throated Piping-Guan (3), Razor-billed Curassow (1 heard, and seen, like a distant Bittern booming), Capped Heron (1), Black Vulture (3), Greater Yellow-headed Vulture (1), Roadside Hawk (1), Black Caracara (1), Bat Falcon (1 heard), Pied Lapwing (3), Spotted Sandpiper (1), Black Skimmer (1), Ruddy Pigeon (1), Blue-and-yellow Macaw (30), Scarlet Macaw (10), Red-and-green Macaw (6), Chestnut-fronted Macaw (30), Red-bellied Macaw (6), Blue-headed Macaw (3), White-eyed Parakeet (10), Dusky-headed Parakeet (2), White-bellied Parrot (3), Orange-cheeked Parakeet (20), Blue-headed Parrot (50), Dusky Parakeet (2), Yellow-crowned Parrot (30), Mealy Parrot (100), Hoatzin (2), Greater Ani (2), Tawny-bellied Screech-owl (1 heard), Ocellated Poorwill (1 heard), Spectacled Owl (1 heard), White-collared Swift (10), Western Long-tailed Hermit (1), White-bearded Hermit (1), White-throated Jacamar (2), Striolated Puffbird (1), Black-faced Nunbird (2), Swallow-wing (8), Chestnut-eared Aracari (2), Little Woodpecker (1), Lineated Woodpecker (1), Yellow-tufted Woodpecker (1), Barred Woodcreeper (1), Dark-breasted Spinetail (1), Chestnut-winged Foilage-gleaner (2, one with a frog in its bill), Plain Xenops (1), Dusky-throated Antshrike (1), Plain-throated Antwren (2), White-flanked Antwren (1), Rufous Motmot (1 heard), Long0winged Antwren (3; 2 females and a male), Gray Antwren (1), Ringed Antpipit (1), Drab Water-tyrant (1), Tropical Kingbird (2), Eastern Kingbird (2), Boat-billed Flycatcher (1), Social Flycatcher (1), Great Kiskadee (2), Pink-throated Becard (2), Dwarf Tyrant-manakin (1 heard), Purplish Jay (3), Violaceous Jay (4), White-winged Swallow (2), Brown-chested Martin (1), White-banded Swallow (10), Moustached Wren (1), Scaly-breasted Wren (1), Black-billed Thrush (1), Silver-beaked Tanager (2), Blue-gray Tanager (2), Turquoise Tanager (2), Green-and-gold Tanager (2), Blue Dacnis (1 adult male, 1 juvenile male), Yellow-browed Sparrow (2), Buff-throated Saltator (1), Grayish Saltator (1), Crested Oropendola (2), Russet-backed Oropendola (10), Olive Oropendola (heard), Yellow-rumped Cacique (6), Troupial (1), Giant Cowbird (2)


Mammals:-

Dudky Titi (6), Red Howler Monkey (4), Peruvian Spider Monkey (6), Tayra (2 – superb animal)


Also – Army Ants (1 swarm); Giant Tarantula (1). Today I was stung by a bee at the clay lick and also bitten or stung by a large ant.


Monday 27th October 2008


Overnight thunderstorm prevented re visiting clay lick therefore lie in. Dry later and very humid.

Pre breakfast walk near the clay lick and also visiting the fish pond. Later, depart for Refugio Amazonas about 11:30, returning the same route as we had used to get to TRC, calling at the Malinowski check point. Arrived at Refugio Amazonas at 15:00. Then a (long) walk to the nearby lake, where we had a trip on a non motorised boat around the lake. Return to Refugio Amazonas at 18:10.


Birds:-

Orinoco Goose (4 on sand bar at side of the river from the canoe), Speckled Chachalaca (2 near clay lick), Spix's Guan (1 TCR), Razor-billed Curassow (3 including 1 in booming display call above us in the canopy at dawn), Neotropical Cormorant (1), Anhinga (1 at ox bow lake), Cocoi Heron (3 along river), Great Egret (1), Little Blue Heron (1 along river), Snowy Egret (4), Azure Gallinule (1 at ox bow lake), Black Vulture (3), Turkey Vulture (1), Greater Yellow-headed Vulture (1), Osprey (1), Swallow-tailed Kite (4), Plumbeous Kite (1), Great Black Hawk (1), Black Caracara (2), Pied Lapwing (1), Spotted Sandpiper (1), Large-billed Tern (2), Pale-vented Pigeon (4 at ox bow lake), Blue-and-yellow Macaw (50 at clay lick), Scarlet Macaw (2 at clay lick), Red-and green Macaw (20 along river), Hoatzin (12 during the day, including 8+ at ox bow lake; 3-4 at fishpond near clay lick; one at the ox bow lake had a chick), Long-tailed Potoo (1 heard on walk in evening in fading light, RA), Rufous-breasted Hermit (1 at fish pond near clay lick), Amazon Kingfisher (1), Blue-crowned Motmot (1 on walk to ox bow lake, RA), Bluish-fronted Jacamar (1 on walk to ox bow lake, RA), Great Jacamar (1 male, on walk to ox bow lake, RA), Swallow-wing (2), White-throated Toucan (1 distant, flying over the river), Pale-legged Hornero (1 at fish pond), Plain-crowned Spinetail (1 at fish pond), Tropical Kingbird (2), Boat-billed Flycatcher (1), Streaked Flycatcher (1 at fish pond), Lesser Kiskadee (2-3 at ox bow lake, RA), Great Kiskadee (1 at ox bow lake), Screaming Piha (2-3 heard, RA), Bare-necked Fruit-crow (2 flying over the river), Purplish Jay (1), Violaceous Jay (1), White-winged Swallow (10), Brown-chested Martin (1), White-banded Swallow (10), Black-capped Donacobius (2 at fish pond in delightful display), Masked Crimson Tanager (1 ox bow lake), Blue-gray Tanager (2 at ox bow lake), Russet-backed Oropendola (15) Yellow-rumped Cacique (2), Giant Cowbird (10), Black-faced Ant-thrush (1 heard)


Mammals:-

Capybara (1 on river to RA), White-lipped Peccary (1 heard TRC)

Spectacled Caiman (1 about two feet long at fish farm TRC)


Tuesday 28th October 2008


Hot, sunny and humid in the Amazon, cloudy, cool and slight rain in Cusco.

Woke 04:30 for breakfast and boat at 06:00 from Refugio Amazonas to Puerto Maldonado and onward flight to Cusco. Arrive Cusco 12:00, Drive to hotel, arriving 13:30. Lunch then city tour. Return to hotel for 18:30. Resting to acclimatise.


Birds:-

Speckled Chachalaca (1 flew over river), Snowy Egret (1), Black Vulture (50 including 2 with pink heads), Turkey Vulture (1), King Vulture (1), Swallow-tailed Kite (12), Plumbeous Kite (3), Roadside Hawk (1), Red-throated Caracara (2), Bat Falcon (good views of 1 bird perched in riverside tree), Collared Plover (1 along river and 2 in airport, Puerto Maldonado), Pied Lapwing (1), Black Skimmer (3), Chestnut-fronted Macaw (2), Dusky-headed Parakeet (1), Yellow-crowned Parrot (1), Mealy Parrot (2), Swallow-wing (2), Chestnut-eared Aracari (1 flew over the river), Screaming Piha (1 heard RA), Violaceous Jay (1), White-winged Swallow (10), Brown-chested Martin (1), White-banded Swallow (4), Palm Tanager (1), Crested Oropendola (1), Russet-backed Oropendola (1), Olive Oropendola (5)


Mammals:-

Southern Amazon Red Squirrel (1 RA)

Also – Pink-toed Tarantula (1 at Puerto Maldonado reception centre)

I ate Alpaca tonight in Cusco.


Wednesday 29th October 2008


Dry, mostly cloudy. Some wind at the lake. Got up to about 3,900m today.

Depart hotel 07:00 for Huacarpay Lake. Drive round part of the lake birdwatching. Then on to the Inca ruins at Pisac, arriving 14:00. Return to hotel to 18:00.


Birds:-

Speckled Teal (5), Yellow-billed Pintail (4), Puna Teal (10), Cinnamon Teal (4), White-tufted Grebe (2), Neotropical Cormorant (2), Cocoi Heron (2), Little Blue Heron (1), Cattle Egret (10), Black-crowned Night Heron (1), Puna Ibis (20), Black-chested Buzzard-eagle (1), Mountain Caracara (2), Plumbeous Rail (2), Common Moorhen (6), Andean Coot (10), Black-necked Stilt (1), Wilson's Phalarope (6, feeding with Speckled Teal and White-tufted Grebe), Andean Gull (50), Bare-faced Ground-dove (10), White-collared Swift (20), Giant Hummingbird (2), Green-tailed Trainbearer (1 male, 1 female near Pisac), Bearded Mountaineer (2 males at lake, 1 near Pisac), Rusty-fronted Canastero (1 near Pisac), Wren-like Rushbird (2 lake), Many-coloured Rush-tyrant (2 lake), White-browed Chat-tyrant (3 lake), Rufous-naped Ground-tyrant (1 at lake), Brown-bellied Swallow (30 near Pisac), House Wren (q heard, lake), Chiguanco Thrush (4), Black-throated Flowerpiercer (3 near Pisac), Rufous-collared Sparrow (common), Greenish Yellow-finch (1 Pisac), Band-tailed Seedeater (common around Pisac), Yellow-winged Blackbird (1 at lake), Hooded Siskin (1 Pisac)

I ate Guniea Pig tonight in Cusco.


Thursday 30th October 2008


Dry all day, some sun.

Leave Cusco at 06:00 for the 12 hour drive to Manu and the Cock of the Rock lodge. Arrive 18:30, having travelled along some spectacular roads, clinging to the hillsides with drops of over 1000 feet only inches from the mini bus almost the whole way. Some stops for birding as we drove, including at a small farm where a pig was slaughtered while we were there.

A gravel road almost the whole way. Lots of evidence of landslides, especially when entering the cloud forest on the eastern slope as we approached the lodge.


Birds:-

Yellow-billed Pintail (4 near Cusco), Andean Guan (3 near COTRL), Puna Hawk (1 on entering cloud forest), Mountain Caracara (2 on entering cloud forest), Andean Gull (2 near Cusco), Eared Dove (2 on W. Side of Andes), White-collared Swift (10), Shining Sunbeam (2 Manu), Violet-throated Starfrontlet (1 Manu), Giant Hummingbird (1 in puna), Black-tailed Trainbearer (1 male on mountain, puna), Bearded Mountaineer (1), Tyrian Metaltail (1 Manu), Golden-headed Quetzal (1 Manu, on way to COTRL), Masked Trogon (1 close from car on way to COTRL), Andean Flicker (2 at stop on W slope of Andes), Bar-winged Cinclodes (1 at stop on W side Andes), Creamy-crested Spinetail (3 at stop on W side of Andes where farmer slaughtered pig), Marcapata Spinetail (2 at first tunnel, Manu), White-throated Tyrannulet (1 at obelisk picnic spot, Manu), White-tailed Tyrannulet (1 near first tunnel, Manu), Torrent Tyrannulet (1 Paucatambo), Yellow-billed Tit-tyrant (1 at farm stop W side of Andes), Cinnamon Flycatcher (2 near first tunnel, Manu), Rufous-breasted Chat-tyrant (1 near first tunnel Manu), Rufous-naped Ground-tyrant (2 nest building W side of Andes), Barred Fruiteater (excellent views of male near first tunnel, Manu), White-collared Jay (2 birds, superb views, on way to COTRL), Brown-bellied Swallow (10 Paucatambo), House Wren (1 at obelisk picnic spot, Manu), Chiguanco Thrush (2 at farm stop, W side of Andes), Great Thrush (1 at obelisk picnic spot, Manu), Black-capped Hemispingus (2 near first tunnel, Manu), Blue-capped Tanager (1 male near first tunnel, Manu), Blue-and-yellow Tanager (2 Paucatambo), Moustached Flowerpiercer (1 obelisk picnic spot), Black-throated Flowerpiercer (1 obelisk picnic spot), Rufous-collared Sparrow (3), Peruvian Sierra-finch (2 at farm stop, W side of Andes), Mourning Sierra-finch (1 heard, farm, W side of Andes), Chestnut-breasted Mountain-finch (1 farm stop, W side of Andes), Spectacled Redstart (1 first tunnel, Manu), Cinereous Conebill (1 obelisk picnic stop), Blue-backed Conebill (2 at first tunnel, Manu), Capped Conebill (1 near COTRL), Dusky-green Oropendola (poor views of one, COTRL), Hooded Siskin (2 farm stop, W side of Andes)


Friday 31st October 2008


Manu. Woke at 04:30 in order to get to the platform overlooking the Cock of the Rock lek for 05:15. Dry and cloudy on rising, then heavy shower from 06:00. Birding at the feeders in the lodge until after lunch. Then depart 14:30 for a drive to mid elevation (2,500m) for birdwatching. Return to Cock of the Rock lodge for 19:00.


Birds:-

Andean Guan (4), Plumbeous Pigeon (2), Gray-fronted Dove (1 COTRL), Squirrel Cuckoo (1), Lyre-tailed Nightjar (1 female COTRL), White-collared Swift (10), Sparkling Violetear (10 COTRL), Wire-crested Thorntail (1 COTRL), Many-spotted Hummingbird (1 COTRL), Blue-banded Toucanet (2), Speckled Hummingbird (1 COTRL), Violet-fronted Brilliant (5 COTRL), Booted Racket-tail (1 COTRL), Lanceolated Monklet (1), Versicoloured Barbet (1 COTRL), Spotted Barbtail (1 COTRL), Montane Foilage-gleaner (1 COTRL), Warbling Antbird (1 COTRL), White-throated Antpitta (1 heard COTRL), Slaty-capped Flycatcher (1), Inca Flycatcher (1 COTRL), Bolivian Tyrannulet (1), Black Phoebe (1 COTRL), Golden-crowned Flycatcher (1), Streaked Flycatcher (1 COTRL), Blue-and-white Swallow (6), Gray-breasted Wood-wren (1), Swainson's Thrush (1 COTRL), Bananaquit (1), Summer Tanager (1), Silver-beaked Tanager (4), Palm Tanager (1), Blue-gray Tanager (2), Blue-capped Tanager (1), Blue-and-yellow Tanager (2), Orange-bellied Euphonia (1 male, 1 female, COTRL), Paradise Tanager (2 COTRL), Golden-naped Tanager (1 COTRL), Blue Dacnis (1), Purple Honeycreeper (1), Yellow-browed Sparrow (2 COTRL), Black-faced Brush-finch (1), Three-striped Warbler (1), Dusky-green Oropendola (2), Russet-backed Oropendola (1), Hooded Siskin (1 COTRL), Andean Cock-of-the-Rock (25), Yungas Manakin (1 male COTRL)


Mammals:-

Brown Capuchin Monkey (3 COTRL), Bolivian Squirrel (1 COTRL), Brown Agouti (1 COTRL)


Saturday 1st November 2008


Mostly dry, some rain. Warm, humid.

Morning trip to the lek (05:15) then afternoon drive to the river at Pilcopata. Visited a coca farm. On return, had to abandon the minibus due to a fault and got two taxis back to the lodge. Then further visit to the lek.


Birds:-

Gray Tinamou (1 heard near lodge), Neotropical Cormorant (1 at river), Turkey Vulture (2), Plumbeous Kite (4), Swallow-tailed Kite (4), Tiny Hawk (excellent scope views of perched bird - red eye and fine barring seen), Spotted Sandpiper (1), Plumbeous Pigeon (2), Feral Pigeon (1), Blue-headed Macaw (4 flew over calling), Military Macaw (4 birds seen flying near COTRL), Smooth-billed Ani (6), White-collared Swift (10), Fork-tailed Palm Swift (6), Sparkling Violetear (5 COTRL), Wire-crested Thorntail (1 COTRL), Many-spotted Hummingbird (` COTRL), Speckled Hummingbird (1 COTRL), Violet-fronted Brilliant (4 COTRL), Booted Racket-tail (1 COTRL), Bluish-fronted Jacamar (3), Highland Motmot (1 COTRL), Fine-barred Piculet (1 near Pilcopata coca farm), Olive-backed Woodcreeper (1), Cabani's Spinetail (1 heard near COTRL), Montane Foilage-gleaner (1 near COTRL), Yellow-browed Tody-flycatcher (1 on way to Pilcopata), Mottle-backed Elaenia (1 on way to Pilcopata), Marble-faced Bristle-tyrant (1 near COTRL), Cinnamon-faced Tyrannulet (1 near COTRL), Olive-sided Flycatcher (1 adult, 1 juvenile near COTRL), Black Phoebe (1 near COTRL), Long-tailed Tyrant (1 adult near COTRL), Tropical Kingbird (1), Golden-crowned Flycatcher (1 near COTRL), Black-tailed Tityra (1), Andean Cock-of-the-Rock (15 at the lek), Purplish Jay (2 near Pilcopata coca farm), Blue-and-white Swallow (1), Southern Rough-wing Swallow (3), Andean Solitaire (1 perched bird singing - like a rusty child's swing), Swainson's Thrush (2), Black-billed Thrush (1), Bananaquit (1), Magpie Tanager (1 Pilcopata coca farm), Black-eared Hemispingus (1 near COTRL), Silver-beaked Tanager (2), Blue-gray Tanager (2), Blue-and-yellow Tanager (1), Palm Tanager (2), Blue-necked Tanager (2), Yellow-browed Sparrow (2), Crested Oropendola (1), Russet-backed Oropendola (1), Hooded Siskin (1), San Pedro Tanager (1 heard but not seen, near COTRL), Golden-bellied Warbler (1)


Mammals:-

Brown Agouti (1), Bolivian Squirrel (1)


Sunday 2nd November 2008


Drizzly, cold on the tops. Rainy and slippy on the road. Dried out towards Cusco.

Today we left Cock of the Rock in a replacement smaller minibus for the return journey along the spectacular road to Cusco. Some slipping as we drove which tested the nerves! Depart Cock of the Rock Lodge 06:30, arrive Cusco (Hotel Los Andes de Americas) 16:50.


Birds:-

Andean Guan (2), Black-and-chestnut Eagle (1 juvenile), Greater Yellowlegs (1 near Cusco), Andean Gull (1 near Cusco), Band-tailed Pigeon (1 on E side of Andes), Plumbeous Pigeon (1 calling, E side), Sparkling Violetear (3 COTRL), Wire-crested Thorntail (1 COTRL), Violet-fronted Brilliant (2 COTRL), Golden-headed Quetzal (1 male, 1 female E side Andes), Azara's Spinetail (5), White-throated Antpitta (1 heard well, E side), Ochraceous-breasted Flycatcher (6 on E side Andes), Cinnamon Flycatcher (1 on E side Andes), Streaked Flycatcher (1 COTRL), Andean Cock-of-the-Rock (1 male E side of Andes, away from COTRL), Green Jay (excellent views of two birds), Brown-bellied Swallow (6 Paucatambo), Mountain Wren (2 on E side of Andes), Andean Solitaire (1 heard E side of Andes), White-eared Solitaire (1 heard and probably seen, briefly; monotonous call, like child's toy trumpet, with an occasional 'click' at the end), Silver-beaked Tanager (1 COTRL), Blue-gray Tanager (1 COTRL), Blue-capped Tanager (1 COTRL), Blue-and-yellow Tanager (1 COTRL), Turquoise Tanager (1 COTRL), Spectacled Redstart (1 on E side of Andes), Capped Conebill (1 on E side of Andes)


Mammals:-

Bolivian Squirrel (1)


Monday 3rd November 2008


Dry sunny and warm much of the day with a shower late afternoon which developed into an evening thunderstorm.

Woke 04:30 to catch the train from Cusco to Aquas Calientes in order to visit Machu Picchu. Spectacular train journey, then coach up to the incomparable Inca ruins at the top of the hill. All morning in the ruins then after lunch drive back to bird along the Urubamba river, before checking out the feeding stations at the hotel in Aquas Calientes. Return to Cusco by less stylish 'backpacker' train to Ollantaytambo, then minibus for rest of the way. Arrive hotel in Cusco (the best we've ever stayed in) at 21:40.


Birds:-

Torrent Duck (total of 27 seen including 1 duckling, Aquas Calientes), Cattle Egret (4), Aplomado Kestrel (1 on way to Machu Picchu from train - longer winged and larger than American Kestrel), Andean Gull (1), Speckled-faced Parrot (2 in grounds of hotel, Aquas Calientes), Chestnut-collared Swift (1 Machu Picchu), White-bellied Hummingbird (2 Machu Picchu), Green-and-white Hummingbird (1 at feeders, hotel Aquas Calientes), Speckled Hummingbird (1 Aquas Calientes hotel), Chestnut-breasted Coronet (6 Aquas Calientes hotel), Collared Inca (2 males Aquas Calientes hotel), Sparkling Violetear (1 Aquas Calientes hotel), Booted Racket-tail (1 Aquas Calientes hotel), Long-tailed Sylph (2 including 1 male, Aquas Calientes hotel), Torrent Tyrannulet (1), Andean Cock-of-the-Rock (1 female, hotel grounds, Aquas Calientes), Thick-billed Euphonia (3, Aquas Calientes hotel), Inca Wren (3 seen and heard well, Machu Picchu), Chiguanco Thrush (1), Blue-gray Tanager (2), Rufous-collared Sparrow (2 Machu Picchu), Dusky-green Oropendola (1 Aquas Calientes hotel), Hooded Siskin (1 Aquas Calientes hotel), Black Phoebe (2), White-capped Dipper (1 Urumbamba river), Chestnut-capped Brush-finch


Tuesday 4th November 2008


Clear, warm all day.

Lie in to 07:30. Then change hotel to Los Andes de Americas in Cusco. Rest of day at leisure.


Birds:-

Rufous-collared Sparrow (3), Chiguanco Thrush (1)


Wednesday 5th November 2008


07:00 flight from Cusco to Lima then city tour including historical district. Lunch at Hotel Maury in Lima before departing KLM flight to Amsterdam, leaving 18:50 local time.


Birds:-

Pacific Dove (2), American Kestrel (1), Vermillion Flycatcher (2 of the melanistic Lima form, Lima)


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